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Technical Talk -> Tech Vault.brake hose and handlebars - Hang on to your radiator caps
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Topic : Engine Stalling
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 poobah22 
Set
Reg. Date : 29/07/2015
Posts : 21
Location : Westmont, IL, United States
Posted : 21 Jun 2018 - 17:57   Post title : Engine Stalling
 
This past spring I did my yearly maintenance, 24,000 mile maintenance, which included checking valve clearances, which kinda sucked because of all the crap over the top of the engine. When I got everything back together she started up and runs fine. What happens is while I'm riding, the engine will just die, stall what ever you want to call it. It will start kind of backfiring which sort of scared the crap out of me because it popped back into the air intake under the seat. I throw in the clutch, let the rpms on the engine go down to zero, throw the clutch back in and she starts back up and runs fine and it usually doesn't happen again on that ride however it has happened sometimes more than once on a ride. Does anyone have any ideas. I'm at a loss and have hit a wall.

 
2010 Thunderbird 1600 ABS


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 bnz433 
Jupiter
Reg. Date : 10/06/2011
Posts : 1,842
Location : Clifton Park (Upstate), NY, United States
Posted : 21 Jun 2018 - 18:11   Post title : Re: Engine Stalling (Re: poobah22)
 
Sounds like some loose or leaking MAP sensor tubes. Loads of pics and fixes here.

 
Bennington Triumph Bash - 31May-2June 2019. Home of the (tied in '14 & '15) US RECORD T-BIRD FLOCKING!!!!!

Link
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 rayglo 
Jupiter
Reg. Date : 27/10/2012
Posts : 1,746
Location : east brunswick, nj, United States
Posted : 21 Jun 2018 - 18:20   Post title : Re: Engine Stalling (Re: poobah22)
 
Years ago I had something similar happening to me, 3 times or so. The bike would shut down completely. All power out. Sometimes without me doing anything it would power back up before I got to the side of the road. Other times I would look at fuses and shit, scratch my ass and within 10 minutes it would start. I never did find the cause nor did it happen again. Back in those days I had no knowledge of map tubes. It would fix itself. . Since then I learn of map tubes and had that experience. Easy fix. so..you sound knowledgeable and I am scracthing agian. Did you check them?

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 poobah22 
Set
Reg. Date : 29/07/2015
Posts : 21
Location : Westmont, IL, United States
Posted : 21 Jun 2018 - 18:35   Post title : Re: Engine Stalling (Re: rayglo)
 
Looks like I will be checking map tubes tonight.

 
2010 Thunderbird 1600 ABS


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 daz 
Zeus
Reg. Date : 12/05/2009
Posts : 7,686
Location :  United States
Posted : 21 Jun 2018 - 20:57   Post title : Re: Engine Stalling (Re: poobah22)
 
Pretty much assured thats what it is. But note that the model year is important here because for the first year or 2 the map tubes were in several parts with a rubber hose connecting them about 1/2 way between the front of the tank where the sensors are and the throttle bodies. So they can come off of the map sensors OR they can seperate in the middle. To get to the middle connectors you need to take the tank off if you have a early model. If not chances are the tube which has a rubber nipple on the end came loose from the map sensor. Heres a pic of my 2010 of the sensors. If all models are the same in thier map location u r in luck because as on mine you can get to them easily without taking the tank off. Just use a flashlight and look under the tank on the right side near the front and you will see them as in the pic below. A is of course the nipple at the end of the pipe and B is the map sensor. You can see the one for the other cylinder just below and right from the one i labeled. Just put a flashlight up there and push on them to make sure they're fully pushed on.



 
2010 Blue/White Thunderbird, "Brutus". 1700 kit, short tors, gutted cat, UNI filter, filter seal off, custom tune. Brutus in his native habitat: Link
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 poobah22 
Set
Reg. Date : 29/07/2015
Posts : 21
Location : Westmont, IL, United States
Posted : 21 Jun 2018 - 21:09   Post title : Re: Engine Stalling (Re: daz)
 
Yup. I was on a long ride over the weekend up in Wisconsin and when I got back to the Chicago area the bike was making a lot of noise when it was rolling and decreased in speed. So I'm pretty sure that was the wheel bearings which is annoying. So I gotta hang it back up to take the wheels off, which I was going to get powder coated back in the process, so I can change out the bearings. While it is up I'm going to yank the tank again and really take a look at the routing of those tubes and their connections at the throttle bodies and the sensors to make sure they are rock solid.

 
2010 Thunderbird 1600 ABS


 Author 
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 daz 
Zeus
Reg. Date : 12/05/2009
Posts : 7,686
Location :  United States
Posted : 21 Jun 2018 - 21:58   Post title : Re: Engine Stalling (Re: poobah22)
 
Ok, i see now yours is a 2010 so you defiately have the 2 piece map tubes that are connected together about 2/3 of the way back to the throttle bodies. So you may wanna buy some later tubes from a 2012 or 2013 whenever it was they changed them to one piece. That way no worries about them coming loose at that middle joint. I used a piece of rubber fueal line or such to connect them because what u will find is triumph in thier infinite wisdom and apparent cheapness uses a piece thats barely long enough to get the 2 pipes together so it comes apart very easily. I used a longer piece. But you'd be better off buying the newer one piece tubes. Dave did that, so if you have any questions about it ask him. (davetac1)

 
2010 Blue/White Thunderbird, "Brutus". 1700 kit, short tors, gutted cat, UNI filter, filter seal off, custom tune. Brutus in his native habitat: Link
 Author 
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 Leethal 
Zeus
Reg. Date : 24/01/2011
Posts : 6,407
Location :  Australia
Posted : 22 Jun 2018 - 03:03   Post title : Re: Engine Stalling (Re: poobah22)
 
Mine has done this on and off for a while, but only on downhill throttle off situations. I thought I had it fixed when I found my autotune wideband sensors had failed, they were telling the PC5 that I was riding at crazy altitudes so i took the whole autotune system off, was ok for a while but now it's back. Map tubes are fine, I replaced them with good quality marine rubber fuel line some time ago.

I'm going to play a bit more with my tune then if it's still doing it I will disconnect the PC5 and run it on the tors tune to see what happens.

Also I am sure some time ago there was a service buletin regarding the ECM on certain serial numbers which was causing loss of power but it was way later model than mine.

 
Experience is something you get just after you needed it
1600,Foran Razorbacks, Meerkat bypass, Dyno tune, real headlight,plenty of chrome,switchblade pegs, Hagon Nitro shocks & Ikon progressive fork springs etc. Scorpion Western Low handlebars. PH adjustable fork caps.
 Author 
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 rayglo 
Jupiter
Reg. Date : 27/10/2012
Posts : 1,746
Location : east brunswick, nj, United States
Posted : 22 Jun 2018 - 03:23   Post title : Re: Engine Stalling (Re: Leethal)
 
Hey Lee, where would I find the service bulletin, and what year is your bike?

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 AZCactus 
Taranis
Reg. Date : 01/05/2013
Posts : 4,524
Location : AZ
Posted : 22 Jun 2018 - 03:25   Post title : Re: Engine Stalling (Re: poobah22)
 
As suggested, check or replace early Bird map tubes. Then consider a dyno
Fwiw, I don't have power commander or modified airbox.

 
2009 Thunderbird 1700 Big Bore

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 Leethal 
Zeus
Reg. Date : 24/01/2011
Posts : 6,407
Location :  Australia
Posted : 22 Jun 2018 - 06:18   Post title : Re: Engine Stalling (Re: rayglo)
 
They used to be on the UK site but can no longer find them, maybe a good google search?

Mine is a 2011 model sold November 2010. So it had all the important updates.

Try this link Link


 
Experience is something you get just after you needed it
1600,Foran Razorbacks, Meerkat bypass, Dyno tune, real headlight,plenty of chrome,switchblade pegs, Hagon Nitro shocks & Ikon progressive fork springs etc. Scorpion Western Low handlebars. PH adjustable fork caps.
Post edited by Leethal on 22 Jun 2018 - 06:36
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 aussietbird 
Set
Reg. Date : 11/09/2012
Posts : 263
Location : WODONGA, VIC, Australia
Posted : 22 Jun 2018 - 12:31   Post title : Re: Engine Stalling (Re: poobah22)
 
Had a similar problem with 2012, built 2011. Stock except for the short TOR's and Triumph supplied tune to suit. The backfire would straight away lead to a stall out, and usually happen on down hills around the 80KPH/50MPH speed at zero T/P.

As the mufflers burnt out from the lean tune, it got worse and worse, till it eventually became frequent and downright dangerous.

The only way of getting a restart was a complete key off shutdown, which could be done on the roll, but in freak hour traffic was fraught, with its own dangers.

Tried the 15 minute adaption.
Tried checking airbox sensors, map sensors and tubes etc etc.

Until I started messing with the tune itself, nothing worked, it would just keep stalling out.
4 years now, and a few more exhaust mods and not 1 stall out. (and the 16th version of my tune)

When the map sensor tube did become dislodged, once, on the next start up the ECU threw up an error and the ECM light came on.


 
The more I understand the human race, the more I love my bike.
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 daz 
Zeus
Reg. Date : 12/05/2009
Posts : 7,686
Location :  United States
Posted : 22 Jun 2018 - 14:30   Post title : Re: Engine Stalling (Re: aussietbird)
 

Good point....it should have lit the error light so to the OP, if yours didn't maybe it;s not a map tube, even tho i cannot imagine it from your description and knowing how common this is. I also had that downhill stall a couple times early on but like you (aussiebird) mine never happened again after i started using custom tunes.

aussietbird wrote:

Had a similar problem with 2012, built 2011. Stock except for the short TOR's and Triumph supplied tune to suit. The backfire would straight away lead to a stall out, and usually happen on down hills around the 80KPH/50MPH speed at zero T/P.

As the mufflers burnt out from the lean tune, it got worse and worse, till it eventually became frequent and downright dangerous.

The only way of getting a restart was a complete key off shutdown, which could be done on the roll, but in freak hour traffic was fraught, with its own dangers.

Tried the 15 minute adaption.
Tried checking airbox sensors, map sensors and tubes etc etc.

Until I started messing with the tune itself, nothing worked, it would just keep stalling out.
4 years now, and a few more exhaust mods and not 1 stall out. (and the 16th version of my tune)

When the map sensor tube did become dislodged, once, on the next start up the ECU threw up an error and the ECM light came on.




 
2010 Blue/White Thunderbird, "Brutus". 1700 kit, short tors, gutted cat, UNI filter, filter seal off, custom tune. Brutus in his native habitat: Link
 Author 
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 Leethal 
Zeus
Reg. Date : 24/01/2011
Posts : 6,407
Location :  Australia
Posted : 22 Jun 2018 - 23:00   Post title : Re: Engine Stalling (Re: aussietbird)
 

aussietbird wrote:

Had a similar problem with 2012, built 2011. Stock except for the short TOR's and Triumph supplied tune to suit. The backfire would straight away lead to a stall out, and usually happen on down hills around the 80KPH/50MPH speed at zero T/P.

As the mufflers burnt out from the lean tune, it got worse and worse, till it eventually became frequent and downright dangerous.

The only way of getting a restart was a complete key off shutdown, which could be done on the roll, but in freak hour traffic was fraught, with its own dangers.

Tried the 15 minute adaption.
Tried checking airbox sensors, map sensors and tubes etc etc.

Until I started messing with the tune itself, nothing worked, it would just keep stalling out.
4 years now, and a few more exhaust mods and not 1 stall out. (and the 16th version of my tune)

When the map sensor tube did become dislodged, once, on the next start up the ECU threw up an error and the ECM light came on.


Mine did it the first time on my ride around the country, then a long time later on my way home from a southern flocking, on that occasion it blew a complete hose and fittings off,lost, and blew the other side off the sensor. This was before i ditched the autotune kit. Has progressively gotten worse, I also have a very touchy point when you are cruising and just feather throttle a tiny bit, it will hit a wall like it's got no fuel, easily recoverable but annoying. I have the short tors and meerkat bypass, the mufflers have done 135000 and a lot of that on long hot rides, so maybe they are burning out. My mates reckon when it backfires before it stalls there are some spectacular flames out the back.

I may end up trying your tune and or get some new pipes.

 
Experience is something you get just after you needed it
1600,Foran Razorbacks, Meerkat bypass, Dyno tune, real headlight,plenty of chrome,switchblade pegs, Hagon Nitro shocks & Ikon progressive fork springs etc. Scorpion Western Low handlebars. PH adjustable fork caps.
 Author 
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 rayglo 
Jupiter
Reg. Date : 27/10/2012
Posts : 1,746
Location : east brunswick, nj, United States
Posted : 23 Jun 2018 - 00:20   Post title : Re: Engine Stalling (Re: Leethal)
 
So dose the stall or backfire blow the tubes off, or the other way around? Occasionally I have the wall problem but at low rpm. I call it a dead spot when giving throttle, a split second where there is no response to imput. Never a problem but as you say annoying. I do not have knowledge as you guys. One day I would like to post my PCV tune and have you guys tell me what you think

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 Slcharger 
Jupiter
Reg. Date : 18/02/2016
Posts : 1,661
Location :  Denmark
Posted : 23 Jun 2018 - 05:58   Post title : Re: Engine Stalling
 
I would check the TPS voltage as well. With closed throttle it should be between 0.6 and 0.62V. It can be read in ECU tune. If getting below 0.58V, the fuel is cut off, and it feels like a stall. If close to 0.58, it may occasionally cut out, randomly, so therefore a safe margin is needed.



 
Big Bird, Bordeaux with " Celtic theme " Airbrush, 2010, 1700CC, ABS, 65.000 km. Lowered with Nitros rear shocks, Linear front springs, Burchard forward footrest kit, Kuryakyn ISO grips, LOTS of chrome, SLcharger REV2+ tune, Modified Cee Baileys windshield, Oil pressure gauge, Air box elimination kit, Portet cylinderhead, Intake cam advanved 8 degree, Exhaust cam retarded 2 degree, 10.5 C/R, Knock sensor, Machined flywheel, DNA Chrome Spoke wheels, 18x8.5"- AVON AV72- 240/40/18, 21x3.5"- AVON AV71- 120/70/21, Corbin seat with backrest, 20W fork oil. Hiflo HF303RC oil filter, Penrite Racing 20-20W60 engine oil, Adjurl lights.
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 aussietbird 
Set
Reg. Date : 11/09/2012
Posts : 263
Location : WODONGA, VIC, Australia
Posted : 23 Jun 2018 - 10:37   Post title : Re: Engine Stalling (Re: Slcharger)
 

Slcharger wrote:

I would check the TPS voltage as well. With closed throttle it should be between 0.6 and 0.62V. It can be read in ECU tune. If getting below 0.58V, the fuel is cut off, and it feels like a stall. If close to 0.58, it may occasionally cut out, randomly, so therefore a safe margin is needed.







 
The more I understand the human race, the more I love my bike.
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 Leethal 
Zeus
Reg. Date : 24/01/2011
Posts : 6,407
Location :  Australia
Posted : 23 Jun 2018 - 23:03   Post title : Re: Engine Stalling (Re: Slcharger)
 

Slcharger wrote:

I would check the TPS voltage as well. With closed throttle it should be between 0.6 and 0.62V. It can be read in ECU tune. If getting below 0.58V, the fuel is cut off, and it feels like a stall. If close to 0.58, it may occasionally cut out, randomly, so therefore a safe margin is needed.



I did fit a new TPS some time ago as I had really weird idle issues, I did set it at .6v with the dealer tool, maybe i should recheck.

 
Experience is something you get just after you needed it
1600,Foran Razorbacks, Meerkat bypass, Dyno tune, real headlight,plenty of chrome,switchblade pegs, Hagon Nitro shocks & Ikon progressive fork springs etc. Scorpion Western Low handlebars. PH adjustable fork caps.
 Author 
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 Leethal 
Zeus
Reg. Date : 24/01/2011
Posts : 6,407
Location :  Australia
Posted : 25 Jun 2018 - 06:10   Post title : Re: Engine Stalling (Re: Slcharger)
 
Well Kim I had ten minutes this afternoon so decided to check the TPSV. Running, warmed up it is now reading .645 on the dealer tool and .67 on tuneEcu. So I have to adjust again even though I double checked last time prior to refitting the tank etc.

Question, the manual takes us through several steps to adjust this, obviously with tank off, so engine can't be run. The voltage is always higher on cold start up, around .7, then drops back with the idle as it warms up. I don't recall the manual stating either way, hot or cold, it says I think, using the triumph tool set it at .58 - .62 , then the adaptive nature of the ECU will adjust in time, do you agree with this?

Does the adjust function in TuneEcu perform the same function as the dealer software, IE :- drives the stepper motor to wide open?

 
Experience is something you get just after you needed it
1600,Foran Razorbacks, Meerkat bypass, Dyno tune, real headlight,plenty of chrome,switchblade pegs, Hagon Nitro shocks & Ikon progressive fork springs etc. Scorpion Western Low handlebars. PH adjustable fork caps.
 Author 
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 Slcharger 
Jupiter
Reg. Date : 18/02/2016
Posts : 1,661
Location :  Denmark
Posted : 26 Jun 2018 - 06:59   Post title : Re: Engine Stalling (Re: Leethal)
 

Leethal wrote:

Well Kim I had ten minutes this afternoon so decided to check the TPSV. Running, warmed up it is now reading .645 on the dealer tool and .67 on tuneEcu. So I have to adjust again even though I double checked last time prior to refitting the tank etc.

Question, the manual takes us through several steps to adjust this, obviously with tank off, so engine can't be run. The voltage is always higher on cold start up, around .7, then drops back with the idle as it warms up. I don't recall the manual stating either way, hot or cold, it says I think, using the triumph tool set it at .58 - .62 , then the adaptive nature of the ECU will adjust in time, do you agree with this?

Does the adjust function in TuneEcu perform the same function as the dealer software, IE :- drives the stepper motor to wide open?


Mate.
Understanding the way the adjustment works :
The TPSV always show the actual butterfly position, regardless if it is adjusted by the stepper motor, or by throttle. Therefore to establish baseline voltage, the butterfly valves have to be in closed position. This is achieved by engaging the stepper motor to closed position, not open.

The voltage is always higher, when engine is cold, due to the stepper motor adjust for higher RPM, thereby rotate the butterfly shaft and consequently the TPS sensor.

It doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold, when adjusting TPSV.

The manual states the range of Voltage to be 0.58 to 0.62, but also state that voltage should be adjusted to 0.6V +/- 0.02. ( witch is basically the same ). My experience though is that 0.6V +0.02V works the best.

The TuneEcu do perform the same function as the dealer tool, no difference there.

The adaptive nature of the ECU does not alter the TPSV, but it adapt to voltage it reads, and adjust the stepper motor values accordingly.



 
Big Bird, Bordeaux with " Celtic theme " Airbrush, 2010, 1700CC, ABS, 65.000 km. Lowered with Nitros rear shocks, Linear front springs, Burchard forward footrest kit, Kuryakyn ISO grips, LOTS of chrome, SLcharger REV2+ tune, Modified Cee Baileys windshield, Oil pressure gauge, Air box elimination kit, Portet cylinderhead, Intake cam advanved 8 degree, Exhaust cam retarded 2 degree, 10.5 C/R, Knock sensor, Machined flywheel, DNA Chrome Spoke wheels, 18x8.5"- AVON AV72- 240/40/18, 21x3.5"- AVON AV71- 120/70/21, Corbin seat with backrest, 20W fork oil. Hiflo HF303RC oil filter, Penrite Racing 20-20W60 engine oil, Adjurl lights.
 Author 
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 Leethal 
Zeus
Reg. Date : 24/01/2011
Posts : 6,407
Location :  Australia
Posted : 26 Jun 2018 - 22:54   Post title : Re: Engine Stalling (Re: Slcharger)
 
Ok, thanks for qualifying a few things. My concern is whether I use the dealer tool or tuneEcu to set the TPSv, given the difference between the two. I can get a third reading I think using the PCV, just to complicate things.

 
Experience is something you get just after you needed it
1600,Foran Razorbacks, Meerkat bypass, Dyno tune, real headlight,plenty of chrome,switchblade pegs, Hagon Nitro shocks & Ikon progressive fork springs etc. Scorpion Western Low handlebars. PH adjustable fork caps.
 Author 
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 Slcharger 
Jupiter
Reg. Date : 18/02/2016
Posts : 1,661
Location :  Denmark
Posted : 28 Jun 2018 - 13:03   Post title : Re: Engine Stalling (Re: Leethal)
 

Leethal wrote:

Well Kim I had ten minutes this afternoon so decided to check the TPSV. Running, warmed up it is now reading .645 on the dealer tool and .67 on tuneEcu. So I have to adjust again even though I double checked last time prior to refitting the tank etc.

Question, the manual takes us through several steps to adjust this, obviously with tank off, so engine can't be run. The voltage is always higher on cold start up, around .7, then drops back with the idle as it warms up. I don't recall the manual stating either way, hot or cold, it says I think, using the triumph tool set it at .58 - .62 , then the adaptive nature of the ECU will adjust in time, do you agree with this?

Does the adjust function in TuneEcu perform the same function as the dealer software, IE :- drives the stepper motor to wide open?


Mate.
Just to make sure you don't overlook anything, allow me to describe how to use the TuneECU TPS adjust function.

When connected to the bike, being in Test mode, double click on button ISCV, and a new window will appear asking if you want to adjust TPS voltage. Click OK, and the stepper motor will now close the butterfly valves fully, ( you can hear it working ) and the lower gauge who normally will show cooling water temp, will convert into TPS voltage read out. Adjust the TPS voltage as required, and double click on the ICSV button again. The read out will now be fully open, by stepper motor. Double click again on ICSV button, and process is ended.



 
Big Bird, Bordeaux with " Celtic theme " Airbrush, 2010, 1700CC, ABS, 65.000 km. Lowered with Nitros rear shocks, Linear front springs, Burchard forward footrest kit, Kuryakyn ISO grips, LOTS of chrome, SLcharger REV2+ tune, Modified Cee Baileys windshield, Oil pressure gauge, Air box elimination kit, Portet cylinderhead, Intake cam advanved 8 degree, Exhaust cam retarded 2 degree, 10.5 C/R, Knock sensor, Machined flywheel, DNA Chrome Spoke wheels, 18x8.5"- AVON AV72- 240/40/18, 21x3.5"- AVON AV71- 120/70/21, Corbin seat with backrest, 20W fork oil. Hiflo HF303RC oil filter, Penrite Racing 20-20W60 engine oil, Adjurl lights.
 Author 
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 Leethal 
Zeus
Reg. Date : 24/01/2011
Posts : 6,407
Location :  Australia
Posted : 28 Jun 2018 - 23:20   Post title : Re: Engine Stalling (Re: Slcharger)
 
Yes thanks mate, I did this yesterday, it also gives the operation to adjust the stepper to .75v when open, the same I assume as the manual operation of adjusting the gap to the roller to .5mm.

The readings I had the other day were static, not when the stepper was driven to fully closed, when i performed the test it read between .6 and .62, couldn't settle on either so I left well enough alone. The other reading was .72 so I took it to .75v. I have not had a chance to ride yet, have been crook as a dog. I have very limited experience with TuneEcu so am learning.



 
Experience is something you get just after you needed it
1600,Foran Razorbacks, Meerkat bypass, Dyno tune, real headlight,plenty of chrome,switchblade pegs, Hagon Nitro shocks & Ikon progressive fork springs etc. Scorpion Western Low handlebars. PH adjustable fork caps.
 Author 
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 Leethal 
Zeus
Reg. Date : 24/01/2011
Posts : 6,407
Location :  Australia
Posted : 04 Jul 2018 - 04:14   Post title : Re: Engine Stalling (Re: Leethal)
 
So I got out for a fairly short ride today, the throttle feathering seems much better, hopefully that sudden nothingness has gone. I tried a fair bit of downhill throttle off in gear coasting and so far no huge backfires and stalling although this didn't happen every ride so the jury is still out on that one. Only difference I made to the tune was taking out a small amount of fuel I had added to the 2% range . See what happens.

 
Experience is something you get just after you needed it
1600,Foran Razorbacks, Meerkat bypass, Dyno tune, real headlight,plenty of chrome,switchblade pegs, Hagon Nitro shocks & Ikon progressive fork springs etc. Scorpion Western Low handlebars. PH adjustable fork caps.